The Whole Dish

Why wait for Turkey Day? Roast bird's breast anytime

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:09:49 GMT

We could have a mutiny on our hands, but my mom and I already are plotting ways to make over Thanksgiving with a little more interest and to be a little more healthful.

Instead of the fat-laden miasma of canned green beans and cream of mushroom soup, we’re angling for braised Brussels sprouts. For the first time in memory, we’ll start with carrot-ginger or squash soup for a little more beta-carotene. As for the mashed potatoes, we’re toying with the addition of wasabi rather than heavy cream and butter.

And if so many people didn’t prefer dark meat, we might even consider a roast turkey breast rather than the whole bird. Turkey breast makes a fine meal, though, anytime a roast supper is warranted. Mulling over what I would cook for my mom’s long-overdue visit this week, I thought of turkey breast and then crossed my fingers that some remained at Food 4 Less despite the late hour I hit the store on Sunday. With a grateful sigh, I snagged one of a lonely pair from the meat case.

I buy a lot of turkey products anyway, but what we’re talking about here is the bone-in, skin-on breast portion that’s been excised from the whole bird. It’s slightly smaller than a whole roast chicken and just about the right size for feeding four people. Because we’re only two, we’ll have plenty of leftovers for sandwiches and soup later in the week. When serving a bone-in turkey breast, figure about three-quarters of a pound per person, rather than the 1-pound-per-person rule for a whole turkey.

I had planned to marinate the meat last night in a mixture of garlic, herbs, a little mustard and cider vinegar but ran out of time while wrestling with my walnut harvest. But I’ve found that liberally oiling the skin and smearing it with a mixture of parsley, lemon zest and garlic before roasting produces admirable results, too. The secret is roasting at a high temperature (think 400 F) so the skin crisps up and the meat doesn’t dry out.

Gravies aren’t common in my kitchen, but I know some at home would appreciate one every now and then. The following recipe, courtesy of the Detroit Free Press is worth a try, either now or for your Thanksgiving meal.

Roast Turkey Breast With Cider Gravy

1 bone-in turkey breast, about 5 1/2 pounds

1/3 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

Salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon Morton Nature’s Seasons Seasoning blend or favorite all-purpose seasoning

2 cups fresh apple cider or apple juice, divided

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups (or more) turkey stock or low-salt chicken broth

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut ribs and backbone out of the turkey breast, if desired, so it rests evenly in pan. Pat turkey dry with paper towel. Set it on a rack in a roasting pan.

In a small bowl, mix together the maple syrup and mustard. Pour half into another bowl and reserve. Brush other half all over turkey. Season all over with the salt, pepper and seasoning blend.

Roast turkey breast one hour and baste with any pan juices. Reduce oven temperature to 325 F. Pour 1 cup of the apple cider over turkey. Continue to roast turkey until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 165 F, about another 45 minutes depending on size.

Transfer turkey breast to a platter and brush with remaining maple syrup mixture. Tent loosely with foil and let rest 30 minutes.

While turkey breast rests, make gravy. Pour all pan juices into a large measuring cup; set aside. Spoon off and discard fat that rises to surface. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Sprinkle in the flour and stir to make a roux. Slowly pour in reserved pan juices. Add the stock or broth and remaining 1 cup apple cider. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil liquid until reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 10 minutes. Season with the fresh sage.

Slice turkey breast and serve with cider gravy.

Makes 4 servings.

Canned pumpkin perfect on your plate or your face

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:03:20 GMT

Much as many of us would like to cook with whole ingredients, sometimes it’s just not worth the bother.

Such is the case with pumpkin. Those sweet little sugar pumpkins seem like such ideal sources of "real" fall flavor.

But I know from experience, that once they’ve been cracked open, the seeds scooped out, the rind peeled off and the flesh roasted and pureed, that the texture and flavor still don’t meet expectations. At least the expectations cooks develop during such a lengthy process.

I’m not trying to discourage anyone from consuming the small pumpkins intended for that purpose, but most seasoned cooks agree that canned pumpkin puree produces identical — some would say preferable — results to puree obtained the hard way. It’s usually a question of texture. Real roasted pumpkin retains a stringiness that takes yet more labor to rectify.

So most of us this time of year turn to Libby’s canned pumpkin puree. The only rub, of course, when dealing with cans is that many recipes don’t use the whole thing, particularly the 29-ouncer. Despite my annual insistence that we only need one pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving, my mom’s response is always, "The can makes two." How to argue with that?

Instead of arguing, I’ve been looking for alternative ways to use up pumpkin. I was charmed by the resourceful Cox family of Medford who uses canned pumpkin puree as an all-natural facial mask, as featured in this month’s Healthy Living magazine. The mask itself is entirely edible, if you’re into baby-food textures.

Also an enthusiastic cook, 20-year-old Lauren Cox, the author of "EcoBeauty," effortlessly blurs the line between food and cosmetics in her new book, which is chock-full of fun holiday gift ideas. "EcoBeauty" is available in major bookstores and online for $19.95.

If you’d rather eat your food than wear it, try this fast pasta recipe that combines pantry staples, including pumpkin puree, leftover or fresh out of the can. Yielding a creamy sauce with the aid of pumpkin rather than a lot of fat-filled dairy products, this dish comes together in 20 minutes.

Pasta with Creamy Pumpkin Sauce

8 to 10 ounces multigrain angel-hair pasta

1 medium shallot

3 medium cloves garlic

2 sprigs sage leaves

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin puree

3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup low-fat milk

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions (6 to 7 minutes).

Meanwhile, mince the shallot and garlic; finely chop the sage.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic; cook for 3 minutes, stirring, until they have softened. Add the pumpkin puree, chicken broth, milk and half of the sage. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until sauce is slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste; keep warm on lowest setting.

Drain pasta and add to sauce, then add 2 tablespoons of the cheese and mix well. Divide among individual plates and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese and remaining sage. Serve with steamed broccoli.

Makes 4 servings.

— Recipe adapted from "The Ski House Cookbook," by Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo.

Downtown Throwdown joins local food events

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:39:37 GMT

As the season for food-centered events gears up, downtown Medford is emerging with a popular new tradition: the Downtown Throwdown.

Regular participants in the Third Friday Art Walk are already familiar with the throwdown, which debuted in July. It’s the brainchild of Nora LaBrocca, a designer for Terra Firma Home and owner of the quasi-catering company Downtown Market Co. Incidentally, LaBrocca has earned top marks in all three previous throwdowns against the stiff competition of 38 Central, Elements Tapas Bar & Lounge, Jackson Creek Pizza Co. and Deli Down.

The restaurants each start with a secret ingredient that a neutral party pulls from a group of envelopes. Typically seasonal, past ingredients were squash, heirloom tomatoes and figs. Last week, yours truly pulled this throwdown’s main ingredient: garlic.

With that theme, each competitor prepares 100 "bites" served free of charge, first-come-first-serve at Rogue Art Gallery & Art Center, My Daughter’s Closet, Molly Reed, Facets Jewelry Studio and Terra Firma Home. Tasters fill out a ballot at each stop, rating the food on a scale of one to five in the categories of "taste," "use of ingredient" and "presentation."

LaBrocca says her background as a designer has given her the advantage in presentation. Last month, Deli Down almost beat her fig tarts with mascarpone filling and red-currant glaze with its layered fig and cheese spread. Jackson Creek Pizza did a fig pie that was so popular several customers asked the next week if they could order it, she adds.

The tasting starts at 5 p.m., and "bites" were consumed by 6:30 p.m. last month, LaBrocca says.

If you’re keen for more Friday-night entertainment on the food front, consider the benefit concert at Ashland’s Stillwater for Rogue Valley Farm to School. Fittingly, the local Americanca-bluegrass-folk band Hamfist is covering Neil Young’s album "Harvest" in their first set, which begins at 9 p.m. There’s a $5 cover at the door, 1951 Highway 66, Ashland.

Rogue Valley Farm to School educates children about the food system through hands-on farm and garden programs and endeavors to provide local foods for school meals. This is one of several shows and forums Stillwater has hosted this growing season to benefit farm and food projects.

Walnuts, figs are fleeting fall delights

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:21:33 GMT

When its fruit is blackened and turning to mush on the ground, a backyard walnut tree doesn’t seem like such a boon.

But in a year such as this when the husk-fly infestation has been minimal and rain has yet to bring the leaves and fruit down in one fell swoop, harvesting walnuts is a bit like an Easter egg hunt, only in autumn.

I noticed the first few walnuts, beautifully brown and dry, littering the ground yesterday when I was out picking garden greens for a salad. Plans had already been laid for a salad with mission figs, gorgonzola cheese and walnuts — the store-bought ones in my freezer. But now — rejoice! — I had walnuts fresh off the tree to enjoy.

The discovery was thrilling since last year had failed to produce a harvest. I gathered from the enormous quantity of smashed shells littering the ground that squirrels beat us to all the nuts. This year, I may have to present my mother-in-law’s new chocolate Lab with some extra-special treats for keeping the pilferers away.

Happily, my mother-in-law, herself, lets me have all the walnuts I want from the tree. After one year’s bumper crop when we both roasted walnuts, she commented that she didn’t care for the "fishy" taste of these. I simply take it as an indicator that more of the omega fatty acids must be intact. Once I freed them from the shell, roasting the nuts quickly in a medium-hot pan brought out the characteristic rich, slightly tannic flavor.

It was the perfect complement to gorgonzola-stuffed figs wrapped in a little prosciutto and oven-roasted for about 10 minutes. On top of arugula and assorted lettuces and dressed with a fig-walnut vinaigrette I purchased at Ashland’s Shop ’N‘ Kart, the components made for a filling meal with a little garlic toast.

Tonight will see me drying the rest in a low-temperature oven so they’ll keep through the winter. Local walnut purveyor Jeff Anderson advises against heating walnuts to temperatures in excess of 115 degrees. Many walnuts found in stores have scorched and bitter spots due to damaging heat, he says. Look for walnuts soon at the Rogue Valley Growers and Crafters Market.

Here’s a 15-minute recipe for a salad similar to mine that demonstrates how easy it is to make frico, or crisps from grated, hard Italian cheeses like Parmesan. Figs’ short season should extend through this month. Enjoy them while you can.

Roasted Fig Salad With Crisped Cheese

1 large clove garlic

Pinch Maldon sea salt, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar or fig vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

4 1/2 ounces finely grated aged pecorino Romano cheese (may substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano)

12 small ripe black mission figs (or 8 large figs)

2 teaspoons light-brown sugar (optional)

3 to 4 ounces salad greens, such as watercress, Boston or frisee lettuces

1/2 cup basil leaves

1/2 cup chervil leaves

3/4 cup walnut halves (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet.

Smash and peel the garlic. Use a chef’s knife and a little salt to mash garlic clove into a paste on your cutting board. Transfer to a small container and add the vinegar and oil to form a dressing. Taste and season with black pepper and salt as needed.

Create about 8 small piles of the grated cheese (about 1/2 tablespoon’s worth each), spaced at least 2 inches apart on your baking sheet. Flatten slightly and bake on middle oven rack for 4 to 5 minutes or until lightly golden, especially on edges. Use a thin spatula to transfer cheese to a plate before disks cool into crisps. (Keep oven at 400 F.)

Wash the figs, then cut them in half lengthwise. Place them cut sides up on baking sheet that was used to make cheese crisps (there should be a little oily residue from cheese that will keep the figs from sticking). Sprinkle figs with the brown sugar, if desired, and bake/roast for 5 to 6 minutes, until fruit has softened and sugar has melted.

While figs are in oven, wash and dry the salad greens; tear the herbs into small pieces. Combine salad greens and herbs in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle lightly with dressing and toss gently to mix well. Divide among individual plates, then add the walnuts, if desired, and cheese crisps. Divide figs evenly among plates, placing them atop salad greens; drizzle with a little olive oil. Serve with warmed corn bread or focaccia while figs are warm.

Makes 4 servings.

Apples, harvest recipes ready for picking

Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:32:56 GMT

Like Neighborhood Harvest’s high season for fruit, a bumper crop of apple recipes is hitting food publications.

After readying this week’s batch of recipes for printing in A la Carte and posting online, I received several new ones, including a couple that seemed too good to hold onto much longer. Our source is The Washington Post with its trusty test kitchen.

I’m always grateful for some new twists on using apples. The tree outside our house is weighted down and looks to produce at least a few bushels this year. I’ve made applesauce and apple butter in the past and eaten apples for two months solid, so a few alternatives are in order.

The first recipe for apple crisps is a more healthful version of those bagged apple chips found in stores and can be prepared for practically nothing, particularly if the apples come free of charge. The fact that these crisps can remain in a low-temperature oven for hours makes these an attractive, no-muss, no-fuss preserving project that could be accomplished in small batches, even on weekday evenings.

The second recipe calling for fruit in an ethnic side dish marries those spices that typically accompany apples with some savory components. As my tastes tend toward the savory, I took care to balance this week’s dessert recipes with fennel-apple slaw and pork tenderloin braised with apples, but one more dish certainly can't hurt. The Post’s recipe also put me in mind of adding apples, onions and either meat or legumes to my favorite jarred curry sauce manufactured by Seeds of Change.

Apple Crisps

2 tablespoons evaporated cane juice (organic sugar)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 large apples, such as Fuji or Braeburn

Position oven racks on middle and lower rungs; preheat to 200 F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine the evaporated cane juice (organic sugar), cinnamon and nutmeg in a small bowl.

Use a mandoline or a steady hand and a knife to cut the apples vertically into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. You do not need to core or peel apples. Seeds will fall out or can easily be removed from apple slices after cutting.

Arrange apple slices on prepared baking sheets in a single layer; sprinkle with cinnamon mixture. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, then rotate sheets top to bottom and front to back. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off oven. If apple slices are not dry and crisp, leave in the (closed) oven overnight.

Use a spatula to loosen crisps from parchment paper; store in an airtight container for 3 or 4 days. Makes about 48 apple crisps; 4 (12-chip) servings.

— Recipe adapted by The Washington Post from "Petit Appetit: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry," by Lisa Barnes (Perigee, 2009).

Moroccan Chickpeas With Apples

1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, preferably a sweet variety, cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon double-concentrated tomato paste (see note; may substitute 1 tablespoon tomato paste)

3 cups cooked chickpeas (may substitute no-salt-added canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained)

3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth (may substitute water)

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, chopped (2 or 3 tablespoons)

Heat just enough of the oil to coat bottom of a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper; cook for 3 minutes, then add the apple and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften.

Add the cinnamon, cumin, allspice, cloves, cayenne pepper and tomato paste; mix well and cook for 1 minute. Add the chickpeas, broth and brown sugar; mix well. Cook until liquid comes to a boil, then cover the pan or skillet, reduce heat as needed to maintain a very low boil and cook for 15 minutes. Taste and add 1/4 teaspoon salt if needed. If mixture is soupy, increase heat to high and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until liquid has reduced and slightly thickened. Remove from heat; add the parsley and mix well. Serve hot or at room temperature. Mixture can be cooled for 20 minutes, then covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Makes 5 or 6 servings.

NOTE: Double-concentrated tomato paste comes in a tube and can be found in the Italian section of most supermarkets.